FDR-AX33: Setting the right exposure

[ioagount]

Hallo everyone.

On FDR-AX33, I am able to set the exposure

• automatically,
• manually or
• Using "Spot Meter" function of the Camera/Mic settings.

I want to ask two questions about the above:

1. What is the difference between the "AUTO" function and "SPOT METER" function? The "SPOT METER" method is more aqurate than the "AUTO"? In both methods the camera decides the value of exposure, doesn't it?
2. If I wish to capture a video in an apartment that has, for example, "Room A" (with an average brightness at noon) and record continuously moving to the " Room B" (with a lower brightness but not dark), is there a way to keep a steady exposure (or brightness-i don't know what term to use for this) during the entire video?

I know that if I let the camera decide the right exposure ("Automatic" option), it needs seconds or milliseconds for the camera to stabilize the exposure and this affects the final result.

On the other hand, if I use the "Manual" method, I have to set the exposure using the manual ring when moving to the "Room B", and this, may not be accurate.

Thank you in advance and sory for the bad english I use.

-John

[Anonymous]

Hi there,

Hopefully one of the community members will be able to assist.

Best wishes,

M

[Win_88]

Hi ioagount,

The main difference between the two methods is that "Auto" is a very general setting whereas "Spot Meter" is better used when there is high contrast between the subject and the background, so the camera decides the exposure level by processing the scene in both cases, but if your shooting scenario has a high contrast scene, you would give the camera an edge by telling it to use "Spot Meter.

As for the second part of the question, the camera will always have to process the changing scene first before changing the exposure which naturally will take some time. But if you don't want to use it and change it manually yourself, you will have to be extremely accurate and to time it perfectly too. So it will take a lot of skill.

Hope this helps.

Win_88

[ioagount]

"As for the second part of the question, the camera will always have to process the changing scene first before changing the exposure which naturally will take some time. But if you don't want to use it and change it manually yourself, you will have to be extremely accurate and to time it perfectly too. So it will take a lot of skill."

Hi Win_88. The above is understandable. Do the high end professional cameras do it automatically and accurately or is this the result of manual operation (as filmakers do in the movies) ?

I use the camera to shoot private moments with the family, on vacations, events, etc.. I try to find the appropriate setting to make my videos watcable, and this camera gives me a lot of combinations of options.

The main difference between the two methods is that "Auto" is a very general setting whereas "Spot Meter" is better used when there is high contrast between the subject and the background, so the camera decides the exposure level by processing the scene in both cases, but if your shooting scenario has a high contrast scene, you would give the camera an edge by telling it to use "Spot Meter.

Hmm.. this is very interesting. Can you explain the phrase "high contrast scene" giving some examples? 

[darkframe]

Hi @ioagount,

well, I'm no professional but I've had the opportunity to accompany professional movie makers several times.

Regarding exposure there was a difference between taking e. g. an interview and taking a scene for a movie.

Regarding an interview the crew prepared the light setting and all of the cameras (most of the time at least 3 cameras) until they were satisfied. There was no need to alter any of the settings while the interview was taking place.

Regarding movie scenes there was quite some preparation as well which in most cases took very much longer than the final take. In those preparations they simulated every single camera action (panning, zooming, focus altering) as well as every single action of the light setting (dim/brighten lights, change of colour temperature and more) when filming in "real world" conditions. In a studio (green screen) that was somehow similar but much more easier as it was closer to the interview setup.

From my point of view there's no simple "do this" and "you'll achieve that". You'll always have to cope with different lighting (which most likely is not ideal), restricted camera positions (your mom won't like to be pushed aside just for "the" perfect shot) and such.

My advice, especially for family movies: Don't raise your expectations too high! Uncle Fred and/or aunt Mary won't realise that maybe the lighting was not perfect. They'll just shout "WOOOOAAAAH, that's MEEEE" and they'll love your movie. 

Anyhow, my best advice is to use the manual mode as often as possible and to simply decide by looking at the camera's screen which might be the best setting for the current take. Yes, that needs some training indeed but if you're getting used to it you'll benefit a lot. Just watch that the shutter time is not set to speeds too low so that movements don't look smeared. You'll however notice that on the screen.

Hopefully I've added some more inspirations.

Cheers

darkframe